The 1998 Barolo Classico Riserva, in fact, is outstanding, very sizeable in its expression of the roses, resin, plums, and anisette of Nebbiolo and endowed with a powerhouse palate, very rich but round and velvety as well. The fruit, minerals, and classy tannins of the close, the sweetness and irresistible texture make this one of the essential wines of the 1998 vintage. -WA
The company was founded by Bartolomeo Borgogno in 1761. A hundred years later its Barolo was chosen to accompany the official lunch celebrating the unification of Italy. Cesare Borgogno, who took charge in the 1920s, began the signature policy of keeping back wines for late release. In 2008, the estate was sold to the Farinetti family. It is best known for its single-vineyard and Riserva Barolo wines, which are some of the most sought-after and expensive wines made in the region. Borgogno is also famous for its practice of holding wines back for more than a decade before release.